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Many now wild chestnut trees remain and the mountain villages underline this
decay. The youngsters have abandoned the hard work and the mountains with
their overwhelming calm to move to the lower plains or the towns and cities.
Only the old are left behind.
We leave Villefort on the D66 to the east-side of Mont Lozère, the
mountain that epitomises the north-east Cévennes. Again and again,
vistas open up such as at Belvédère de Bouzèdes where we
stand on a mountain crest overlooking a lake and from where, when the weather
allows a clear view, one can see as far as the real sea - the Mediterranean.
From Le Pont-de-Montvert, we follow the small Tarn river whose course brings
us to Causses, the large chalk plateau that sets the scene for the western
Cévennes.
Just before Florac, the valley gives the first clear view of
the Causse Méjean and according to the map, the D16 leads up to this
plateau.
In view of the precipitous cliff-face in front of our eyes, this
possibility seems somewhat absurd and we resolve to address this problem first
thing in the morning.
After pitching the tent on the banks of the Tarnon (that leads to the Tarn
near Florac) we come to our first substantial meal and over a glass or two (or
more) of 'Pastis', the tours for the next few days are planned.
Our first trip does not lead us on to the Causse Méjean but to the
small chalk plateau of St.Laurent-de-Trèves where we visit a
scaled-down version of Jurassic Park.
About 190 million years ago, a Ceratosaurus left just 18 footprints behind.
However, finding them was somewhat difficult and when we came across the
information board we were none the wiser and could only imagine or guess
where the French dinosaur had left its prints.
A French television team, there to shed some light on prehistoric
times, had the answer for us. The dinosaur tracks are only 20cm (8 inches)
long and for non-palaeontologists are not spectacular but they had brought us
here on our motorcycle tour.
Our route now leads over the "Corniche de Cévennes", as the
high D9 road is known, as far as Anduze. In the town centre, a large but
simple building with a classical columned front is noteworthy. It serves as a
"Temple", as the Protestant churches here are known. No services are
held here except the "Culte Protestant". The Protestants of the
early 18th century paid dearly with many dead for their religious freedom
during the "Camisard War" of 1702-1710. To the present day, the
Cévennes remains a Protestant enclave in a catholic France.
Not far from Anduze, there is a totally different attraction. Near the
Générargues district lies the "Bambouseraie de
Prafrance", the only bamboo forest in Europe where the microclimate in
this valley makes it possible. After one has been led around by nice young
ladies in khaki uniforms and tropical hats and told everything about bamboo,
you have the chance to buy almost anything made out of, or to do with, bamboo.
Accordingly, we meet here hoards of tourists again - the coach park in front
of the entrance should have warned us.
After all the tourists, we are glad to be back in the mountains. On leaving
the Vallée Francaise, we come to villages where it seems time has stood
still. Enchanted castles are on every side and, enchanted ourselves, we gently
swing through the curves in the afternoon warmth. We can count the cars coming
in the opposite direction on the fingers on one hand.
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