The depopulated mountains (6)

The last stage of our Cévennes tour takes us from Le Vigan, via the rather deserted winter-sport district of l'Esperou and the Jonte gorge to Tarn Gorge - the absolute highlight of Causses. For lunch, we stop at a small restaurant on the banks of the Tarn. To see the origin of the trout on the plate, one only has to go to the terrace overlooking the river to see the living species of our meal swim around. While we eat, a French biker stops by our motorcycles and comes over for a chat. The question that I almost expected came, 'A KTM isn't bad but don't you have to carry a lot of spares and the right screws?' 'No I don't!' I answer with a knowing smile. He is a bit amazed as I tell him that this is already my third trip with the KTM to the south of France without any problem.
The little Suzuki also proves itself as a solid and reliable touring bike. Granted, there are certainly more comfortable types that one can consider as an overland sports bike but I have grown really fond of the rough, powerful engine - it's a case of the easier the going, the greater the riding fun. After a dessert and a small black coffee, we ride further up the Tarn valley. To our horror, there is steady traffic until we are at the single-track tunnel from St.Chely where there is finally a traffic-jam. Abruptly, we are reminded again that it is the peak holiday season but the Tarn Gorge is so attractive that we cannot miss it.

St.Enimie, the biggest district of the Tarn, is also well visited. The typical scene is of strolling big-bikers, of full café terraces and camera-laden groups being led around the restored lanes and alleyways of this village of artists. But to see the Tarn from its best side, one must choose another form of transport; from two wheels to a canoe. Only from the water can you see the most attractive section of the gorge. After we put our things in a waterproof plastic container, off we go. It is a very pleasant feeling to go silently along the river and just watch the scenery go by. For fun and for a change, we keep trying to go with the faster current which even as landlubbers we find no problem to master. We come to beaches that are only accessible from the river but at some points, the Tarn has so little water that we must get out and push our canoes, but it's worth all the trouble.

We can also wonder at the Détroit Rocks in peace and quiet - a special point in the gorge that from the road one might only just suspect was there to be seen. At the end of our tranquil tour we are picked up by the boat-hirer and brought back to St.Enimie.
Early the next morning, the mist in the valley lifts hesitatingly as we travel up to the Causses for the last time. We stop and turn our engines off to sense the unending silence of these desolate mountains for the last time too before we go back home. Back through the brutal heat of the southern French sun and naturally through the traffic-jams and that is our holiday time in the south of France over.